'The fears we don't face become our limits.' - Robin Sharma 

The only limits that exist in surfing are defined by yourself - by your mental and physical strength. Forget about your angst, focus on the wave, read it, feel it, do it, surf it.

Surfing is about self-confidence. It's about the strong belief that you can.

Fearless 

I'm approaching the beach, and the adrenaline starts flooding my venes.

It's hard to describe what pushes me. But probably I just got attacked by the surfer's virus.

"You can take a surfer out of the surf, but you can not take surf out of surfer." - Bob McTavish 

It would be rather impossible to take anything out of me at any time. 

As long as this virus keeps controlling my doings, you'll have to watch a looooooot more surfing videos - if you want or not :-)

Fearless (1:25 min video) 

Today was not my best day.

The waves were huge and I had trouble to concentrate myself. 

I was thinking too much about failing. It would have been much smarter aligning the focus with the aim. But surfing is like real life: there are days you're just unable to deliver 100%. 

Knowing that we're not perfect makes us humble. 

I'm actually thankful for all of the lessons life teaches me. If we knew everything straightaway, where would be the excitement? 

I will leave you with my favorite shot of the day. It's called:
"If you don't catch the wave, it will catch you." :-)

Marly - 

Pictures and video taken by myself (original content).